Something a little different, but worth the time
I'd heard about this rail grade in Idaho, somewhere up toward Coeur d'alene, that had a bunch of tunnels and trussel. We got looking at it late in the season last year, but couldn't quite pull it off before they closed for the season. I should know better than to put any ideas in the head of my better half, as it will happen before I know it. Turns out, the trail is absolutely spectacular. It's really not much of a bike ride, as it is only 15 miles from one end to the other, but what a fantastic experience.
 |
| East Portal - St. Paul Pass tunnel, starting point of the "Route of the Hiawatha Trail" |
The ride itself is pretty gentle. Where it is a former rail grade, it generally stays under 2%, with only a couple places pushing toward 4%. Most of the road is well kept, albeit a tad rough with the small rock that make up most of the surface. There is nothing, and I mean nothing technical about this ride. You'll see everything from gravel bikes, to mountain bikes, to basic garage bikes. A lot of families with either tag-alongs, or trailers for little kids. I'd say about 75% - 80% of the people that do this ride, do it from the top to the bottom only - taking a shuttle back to the west portal at St. Paul pass.. They ride it kind of like an amusement park ride. Doing this misses most of what there is to take in.
Right from the very beginning, the tunnel at St. Paul pass (west portal shown above), sets the tone for what will be a very cool (literally and figuratively) experience. This tunnel is by far the longest at 1.66 miles. It is dark - absolute darkness. It is also wet and rather cool. Throughout the tunnel there are many water "sources" pouring all around. If you look closely at the stream on the right-hand side above, you'll see about half of the water that drains from the tunnel - about 1,500 gallons per minute. Long finger gloves, light rain-gear and a very good light are a good idea. I would suggest at least 5000 lumens. It is something to experience by itself.
The remaining tunnels are not nearly as long at St. Paul pass, but you'll still need lights. I would recommend a head mounted light, rather than a bike mounted device. There are numerous artifacts to see in these tunnels, including the story board kiosk in St. Paul that will be hard to examine without a head mounted light.
 |
| Distant Trussel from Trussel above. |
The trussels themselves are pretty cool. As you pass from one, toward, or away from the others, you will see other trussels a fair distance away, illustrating how far you have to ride in the elevation relief. Looking at the construction, given the era in which they were constructed, that by itself is amazing.
The view along along this ride is absolutely beautiful. Simply riding straight down to the shuttle pick-up is a shame. Once you start looking around, you'll find yourself stopping every five minutes for a picture, or simply to take in the beauty around you.
The ride in between trussels and tunnels, is beautiful as well. All along this trail there are numerous story board kiosks that provide a lot of interesting information. If you take the time look, you'll also notice many artifacts not included in any of the "official" stuff. It is well worth the time to simply just take in all that surrounds you along this trail.
 |
| End of the trail at the shuttle pick-up |
I recommend this tail to pretty much anyone that enjoys the outdoors and can appreciate history. This is not a bike ride, but a trail tour on a bike. Don't do it for the bike ride alone. It's not a bike ride. I think most people miss most of the fascinating details that adorn this trail, by just riding down to the shuttle pick-up. I recommend riding down to the shuttle pick-up, having a little something to eat and then taking the rest of the day getting back to the beginning. If you save all the stopping for the ride back, you'll do so often enough you won't get tired. Although it is up hill, it is pretty gentle and hardly noticeable. Given that you are stopping pretty much every five minutes, it will take you several hours to get back. If you are physically incapable of riding back to the top, take all the time to get to the bottom while taking in all the details. Be aware, the wait for the shuttle certain times of the year can be lengthy. Add to that, the ride back to the St. Paul pass tunnel can be 45 -55 minutes on a modified school bus - albeit in absolute stunning scenery. You'll still have to ride the 1.66 mile tunnel back to the beginning.
 |
| Front desk at the Ryan Hotel, Wallace, Idaho |
The beginning of the trail is in Montana. Although you can purchase trail tickets at several locations, the trail "HQ" is at Lookout Pass Montana - directly on the Montana/Idaho boarder. The nearest serviceable town is Wallace, Idaho. A pretty cool little place, but somewhat limited in accommodations. There is a little hotel called the Ryan. It is very rustic, but extremely clean and comfortable. It is literally right out of the late 1930's, early 1940's. I also recommend this location as part of the experience. Please visit the Ryan and tell Donna the Porpoise sent you that way. You will not be disappointed.
Click here for the Ryan Website
So..........this is a little different, but I'd invite everyone to try this little experience. Regardless of your ability. there is a way to make it happen. If you haven't ridden a bike for a while, take a little time to re-familiarize yourself with that experience. Dress in light layers and know your gear. Carry enough water, as I'm sure there are times it may get warm up there. Carry some snacks if not a simple lunch. They do have hot dogs at the bottom of the trail, but everything is cash only. You can also purchase some trail snacks and drinks at the bottom. There are a couple limited water sources along the way, but don't depend on those for your needs. Bike rentals are kind of sketchy. I'd make sure you know what kind of bikes you will be getting with a rental (better yet, take your own bike). The trail marshals were pretty much non-existent during our visit (second to last day of the season). Be prepared. You're not in the back country - completely isolated, but don't ruin the experience by having mechanical problems. Good head lamps are a must. You can purchase darn good LED, high-power devices on Amazon for under $30 USD. Good to have anyway. Most of all; start early and take your time. Take all day if possible. It is very relaxed and can be a great retreat from life. The trail opens at 08:30 and closes at 17:30. Keep in mind, that part of Idaho is in the Pacific Time Zone, while Montana is in the Mountain Time Zone. Trail times are all Montana, even though most of the trail is in Idaho (the entrance is in Montana). It is a long drive to get there, unless you live in Butte, but who lives in Butte? It is directly off of I-90, about 90 minutes west of Missoula, Montana.
Do it right, and I promise you'll be glad you took the time.
Stick around. Plenty of dirt riding to be had.
Okay, so the 70's had it's strange moments.
Click here for a little Slade - Run Runaway
Ride HARD!
